So, <\/a>tonight I ate at a venerable old seafood restaurant in the West End of London. I had Jellied Eels<\/a> to start, which is something that despite my proclivities, I have never yet eaten before. Various sources report on the phenomenon:<\/p>\n
This dish, either delicious or disgusting, depending on your point of view, finds its roots in the muddy Thames estuary, which is a good habitat for eels. They were easy to catch locally, and it was easy to keep them alive in barrels for long enough to bring them to market, so the supply was easier than that of other kinds of fish. They were common, cheap and easily transportable, making them a favourite in the East End. Unlike oysters, which were once a cheap and common sight in the East End, jellied eels haven’t gained a widespread popularity. source<\/a><\/small><\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Another somewhat amazing and simultaneously horrifying source<\/a> reports that:<\/p>\n
Now, beloved, I will tell you: there is nothing to miss in England about the Clothes Shops. However, check this out from the Guardian<\/a>:<\/p>\n
The moral of the story is that it was delicious. I’m not sure that I really understood the technique
<\/a>behind eating them “\u201c presumably, you’re meant to fish out the Eel Segment and then put it in your mouth, eating the skin and the flesh, and discarding the central bone? This eel, you see, is not the filet of una-don to which we are all accustomed, but rather, horizontal slices through the body of the entire Eel. <\/p>\n
I am particularly excited because yesterday, I ate at my Second Favorite Restaurant on Earth, that being, St John Bread and Wine<\/a>, the Big Girl<\/a> St
<\/a>John being closed for renowations this summer. My friend Thomas<\/a> and I both agree that these restaurants fill one with such a sense of well-being and goodness that…there is no end to the clause. St John is a whole lifestyle: check out this page<\/a> for evidence of this. If you don’t get it, it’s probably not for you. Or, barring that, try this<\/a> page, and see if you begin to experience the pleasuresz.<\/p>\n
Anyway, I went with my friend Jaffer, and we ate smoked eels, a delicious plate of brawn (head cheese, but thickly sliced, and cold, unlike the Mario Batali warm and thinslice version available in New York “\u201d very satisfying), which is pictured at left, and then we ate what I think is one of the most delicious things I have ever consumed: a veal neck for two. Now, I have eaten every weird pig, uh…ear, back, and crack that there is to eat, but never have I eaten a veal’s neck. It was: unspeakably good. What we are discussing is a huge pile of veal, articulated on the edges by little brackets of burnt fat and flesh, with the central section being a gradient from dark, BBQ-looky pulled pork zones, to light pink babyflesh zones. I didn’t get a chance to photograph it because J”\u201d and I consumed it like animals<\/a>.<\/p>\n
In other “culinary” news, you can watch me<\/a> cook some cauliflower and broccoli rabe and chickpeas for The Fader magazine. I was sort of blindsided because, see, I agreed to cook for them on video, and then they informed me that the interviewer was vegetarian. I’ve had, like, two vegetarians in my house ever, and it hasn’t ever ended well: tears, whimpering, accusations. Is it even called cooking without the sizzle of fat on a griddle? I suppose butter counts, and butter they got! I secretly put so much butter in that broccoli rabe; it was poached<\/em> in butter. I should have secretly rubbed some sausage up on that, but I had an Compunction (only one, but if you pronounce it with four syllables, it feels more legitimate).<\/p>\n